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HUMOUR

THE REYKJAVIK - AKUREYRI CANAL

by Sean Neill

It might seem to be beyond the plans of the wildest canal pioneers to build a canal across Iceland, but Thomas Dadford Tertius, on a Grand Tour financed by his famous father and grandfather, took up Icelandic citizenship as the walruses reminded him of the natives of the frigid wastes of Essington and Perry Barr. He noted that both Reykjavik and Akureyri enjoy central heating from the hot springs and geysirs of the central volcanic belt, and this offered a solution to the apparently insoluble climatic problems. Careful surveying ensured that as far as possible, all feeders were warm on entry to the canal. This offered the prospect of an uninterrupted water transport during winter, when coastal shipping was impossible on account of the sea ice. At both ends, cargo was transhipped to reindeer sleds for transport the short distance across the sea ice in winter; these sled-to-water transhipment wharves were of course unique in canal practice. During the summer the boats were moved down the fjords in tow from whaleboats. The boats were, of course, towed by reindeer teams on the canal itself; boatmen wore a distinctive red costume, trimmed with white fox fur, for visibility against the desolate landscape, so that boats travelling in opposite directions became aware of each other in good time. The consequences of an unexpected meeting could be hours of delay while the tow-ropes of one team were untangled from the antlers of the other. Some boatmen painted their team's noses red for further visibility. Unfortunately, since reindeer are colour-blind and of a dashing and thunderous disposition, these precautions had little effect. Not even the boatmen's desperate cries of 'Ho-ho-HO!!!' were able to check their headlong pace.

Strictly, the route started from Akranes Fjord adjacent to Reykjavik, so the canal could climb over the low saddle to Thing Valley. Uniquely, back-pumping was handled by beam engines powered by thermal steam, both at this summit and on the central plateau. After crossing Thing lake, the route crossed the Hvita on a basalt aqueduct, before turning up the Thjorsa Valley for the climb up to the central plateau. Hot water supplies were plentiful in the Hekla area, and on the central plateau the summit level was warmed by feeders from another volcano, Trofladyngia. The descent from the summit level followed the Skalfandafliot Valley, before crossing to a hanging valley leading to Eyja Fjord on which Akureyri lies.

Initially the canal was highly successful, with a brisk southward trade in eider down, whalebone and narwhal ivory. The northward trade consisted mainly of imported goods, among which magazines with pictures of whalebone corsets caused particular interest in Akureyri, where it was generally believed that a woman could not safely wear less than twenty-six layers of furs without freezing to death. However a shift in the pattern of volcanic activity in the central plateau (which some years later led to the formation of the new volcanic island of Surtsey) interfered with the vital hot water feeders to he canal, and in 1881 the entire length froze completely solid. Some of the boatmen thus precipitately thrown out of work travelled to the United States with their teams, looking for employment, only to find that the railroads had replaced the American canal system. The romantic image of teams of reindeer delivering goods appealed the American newspapers, which made great play with the speed with which they galloped through the December nights. However, given the chronic American inability to understand geography, they were reported as coming from Lapland rather than Iceland. Few know that Thomas Dadford Tertius was responsible for the origin of a modern myth, a myth made in Birmingham.

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This page was up-loaded on 30 September 2000 and last up-dated (layout only) on 29 January 2002.

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Originally written as a posting to the newsgroup uk.rec.
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Copyright, © Sean Neill, 1999